5/7/2023 0 Comments Ionia vs. magna graecia![]() ![]() A ferry to Bari or Brindisi is easy enough. I have to agree, the proximity to Greece helped, for Calabria is surrounded by mountains and is further away from Greece. READ MORE: Documentary ‘Mykonos: The Other Side’ to make Foxtel debut Poet Cici Cafaro from Calimera. In a book Costa had written in 1990, he also broke down some of the differences between Griko and Greko, providing a great roadmap for us Aussies to locate these towns. They have both spoken to me about the Griko language and the culture, the people and how the proximity to Greece helped keep the language prominent. There are moments when we felt as though we were in Greece thanks to the olive groves, Ida talking in Greek and the Griko signs.Īustralian writer and lawyer Costa Vertzayias had visited here in the 1980s as did Professor Vrasidas Karalis from the University of Sydney, who spent several months studying the Griko for a thesis. The landscape is mainly flat in busy areas to make it easy for traversing and is covered in olives. ![]() The first Doge of Venice was a Greek from Sicily and a number of Popes were Greek! Divine facts.įor those keen on the Greek history, Apulia will have your heart racing. In fact, the Byzantine Empire controlled Rome, Venice, Ravenna and a good chunk of upper Italy for centuries. The Italian peninsular was truly divided into Greek and Roman and had it not been for the weakening of Macedon and Epirote powers, and the retreat of an undefeated Pyrrhus and Hannibal respectively, Greek may have been the language of the entire Italy. ![]() Pyrrhus at one time ventured into Magna Graecia to fight the Romans and the Carthaginian general Hannibal counted on the Greek cities as supporters when he was busy defeating the Romans in 216. Neapolis, Taranto, Poseidonia, Reggium, Locri, Messina, brilliant Syracuse, the Byzantine stronghold and home to Saint Nicholas’ bones of Bari, are just some of the ancient Greek cities. Magna Graecia was the term the Latins and Romans gave the Greek speaking south of Italia, which first hosted Greek settlements commencing around 2800 to 2700 BC. READ MORE: Magna Graecia: How a dark cloud is lifting from the Calabrian Greko WIth Antonio Nuzzo a Griko speaker in Castragano. It can be argued that the language goes back to the ancient Hellenes who dominated the region, when it was known as Greater Greece, or rather, Magna Graecia. This is a language that predates Modern Greek, and certainly was evident during the Byzantine Greek epoch of Apulia. Sitting in a square listening to Griko and having a coffee was a treat. You enter a town which proudly boasts the name of the town in Griko, and you find the piazza. Each day we would drive out to see the living Griko history. These towns are about an hour from where Ida lives. We will never forget the seven-course meal she made for us on Day One, complete with Lesvos ouzo.Īs an old friend who was meant to be our translator for any Italian problemos, it soon became obvious that Ida was more enthusiastic about the towns and soon became friends with most of the older Griko speakers we encountered. She is not a Griko speaker, however she is a gracious host, allowing us to stay, eat Greek food, brainstorm and drink Italian coffee. I vowed to return one day to document both Calabria and Apulia for the audience Down Under, especially as we had thought at the time that these people were in the last generation.įast forward to over 16 years and 20 kilos later, my London-based filmmaker buddy Basil Genimahaliotis and I made the trek to Calabria, and in Apulia we were joined by Greek-Italian Ida Zerva. We made the trek after an inspiring few days visiting the Greko speakers of Calabria, a trip we will always be thankful to Carmelo Nucera, Professor Filippo Violi and writer Pat Porpiglia who became our passports to the Greko, which is a slightly different dialect to the Griko of Apulia. I first visited Apulia with my then girlfriend in 2002. Once upon a time, a visitor to Calimera and Apulia would not have needed an Italian stranger to follow in order to find the descendants of the Hellenes, Griko speakers, for their dialect was the lingua franca of the region until recent centuries. The opening scene of our new documentary said it all – ‘this is not a police chase, it’s a Greek chase’ – as a friendly Italian allowed us to follow him to find the Griko-speaking town of Calimera that we had come to experience.Īpulia, also known as Puglia, is the home of 13 Griko towns and a few thousand Griko speakers. ![]()
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